Manufacture of flexible sole shoes



H. S. LYNESS MANUFACTURE OF FLEXIBLE SOLE SHOES July 4, 1950 2 Shee ts-Sheet 1 Filed March 5; 1948 In van for Horafz'o S Lyness y 1950 H. s. LYNESS 2,513,501

MANUFACTURE OF FLEXIBLE SOLE SHOES Filed March 5, 1.948

2 Sheets-Sheet 2 7/ III/111111,

fnvenior ibrafioflllyness Patented July 4, 1950 2,519,501, I MANUFACTURE OF FLEXIBLE SOLE sHoEs Horatio S. Lyness, Lynn, Mass., assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, N. J a corporation of New Jersey .JIhis invention relates to the manufacture of shoes and is herein illustrated in its application to methods of making shoes characterized by the. comfort and flexibility of the shoe bottom constructions. ,In the manufacture of slip-lasted shoes so called;- the usual leather insole is omitted and a: thin innersole, usually referred to as a sock lining, is employed, said sock lining being stitched tothe bottom margin of the upper. Shoes of this-type are commonly provided with resilient bottom filler members or cushion soles and are characterized by their comfort and flexibility.- Thistype of shoe manufacturedoes not lend itself readily to the construction of shoes having closed uppers. Furthermore, slip-lasted shoes usually lack the shapely appearance characteristic, of lasted footwear, and largely for that reason,;they have been regarded as a low grade product.

...It is an object of the present invention to achieve in lasted shoe constructions the same degree of comfort and flexibility which has been provided heretofore in slip-lasted shoes.

With this object in view the present invention, inone aspect thereof, consists in an improved method of making shoes which comprises assembling together a filler which has the shape and dimensions of a last bottom and a socklin ing which is preferably of the type employed in the manufacture of slip-lasted shoes and has a margin extending outwardly from the edge of the filler when assembled therewith. After attaching the filler and sock lining assembly'temporarily to a last bottom an upper, preferably a closed upper having a box toe and a counter, is assembled on the last in any approved manner, whereupon the upper is shaped over the last in accordance with any suitable practice. In the upper shaping operations, the outwardly extend ing marginal portion of the sock lining is wiped inwardly over the margin of the filler with the lasting margin of the upper, and said marginal materials are held in overwiped position, for example, by temporary lasting fastenings, until suitable adhesive stiffening means applied to or incorporated in the upper and the margin of the sock lining has hardened or set to retain the disposition of said marginal materials. After the stiffening means has set, the temporary fastenings are removed and the marginal materials are trimmed flush with the exposed surface of the filler. The filler is then removed from the shoe bottom to permit the marginal materials tobe' permanently secured together, preferably Application March 5, 1948, Serial No. 13,128

3 Claims. (01. 12 -142) by stitches. This is followed by the insertion into the shoe bottom of a filler which may be the filler which was previously removed therefrom or, if desired, may be another filler made of a flexible and-resilient material which would not provide a suitably firm margin over which to last the marginal materials of the upper and the sock lining but would provide a highly desirable filler material. From this point the construction of the shoe proceeds in accordance with any established practice. For stiffening the lasted margins of the upper and the sock lining I prefer to employ in the toe. portion of the shoe a stiffener I or box toe of the type which is initially flaccid and ultimately sets to the shape of the last and becomes adhesively attached to the upper and the sock lining, and at the side portions of the shoe the stiffening effect is produced by the adhesive provided for attaching themargin of the sock lining to the upper. In shaping the upper over the last and the filler piece I prefer to employ conventional machines now provided for that purpose and'I secure the upper in shaped position in any approved manner by temporary fasriphery of, the shoe.

tenings. which may be readily removed preparatory to thetrimming operation. Shoes made in accordance with the method above described may, if desired, be provided with platform soles in which case a suitable wrapper is attached to 30 the margin of the upper, preferably by the fastenings which secure the upper to the sock lining. If a full length platform sole is to be provided the wrapper extends about the entire pe- If, on the other hand, the platform is to terminate at the' ball line, the wrapper extends about the forepart and toe portion of the shoe only. It will be understood that the shoemay be completed by the Goodyear welt process, if desired, in which case an outsole attaching welt, rather than a platform wrapper,

is attached to the margins of the upper and the tially completed shoe in which the filler and the' platform sole are broken away;

"Fig; 3 is cro s sec th o gh the-forepart Fig. 7 is a cross sectional View showing the shoe without the filler and showin the margins: of;

the upper materials, the $001; lining and a wrapper attached together by stitches Fig. 8 is a cross sectional view through the; forepart of the completed shoe; and

Fig. 9 is a cross sectional view through the forepart of a completed shoe having an out sgl e attaching welt secured to the margins of the upner. materials it}; la o he wr pp shew-h. r t i 8 r ar er 1 the. hum ral itleh i er & il eil'haihe. the e. Shane he m mensionslas thebot oi a last of a correspond A s v 03min e e e method heas: lustr ed F si te-ted Oh? h ater-te est l5. F swiththe; i er-u e mhs he l i h. he e e ace of he arranged; is r h i l wi h, he ed ,e f he. e thcttom- T e filler andsc h h e is temporarily attached tothe' last etherm?- w ich i entifie h he 1 18 h re, 3- t c hesiu Pr ise tithe has ees mhl a 1 e 5 A h w Eig t. h u e wmh i st ute h ia 20 a ime 2 ah aho h -4 eti one e w eh h t er r oh gland the ihin flab y or theltype which is flaccid when tee r ion o t eshow as e ain tiutm a member a d ld ga ns sai bu men he, s d portions and the heel end portion a. t tim rehen asted h a y-h wh 12 ner and. are secured in lasted position by. tacks, hethe abl r e a etastenihg m ant .In the course of; the ulling over and lasting operations the margin M; of the; sock lining pro,- iectingoutwardly from the edge face of the filler is bent upwardly against the edge face of the: filler and inwardly over the exposed bottom surface thereof into its positionillustrated in Figs. 4 and 5. Themargin of the upper lining 4-2 which engages the margin of the, sock lining is treated with cement to cause said parts to adhere to each other. 'At the toe portion of the upper the outeljr portion 20 and the lining 22 adhereto the box toe z lzandsimilarly inthe heel portionnih h9 h he rwe a ual shi h vpe r has been mounted. on. the la t.

mb erby a. removable binding wire,

a molded unfianged counter (not shown) is coated with paste which causes it to adhere to the lining and the outer portion of the upper. Along the side portions of the shoe between. the box toe 5 and the counter the margins of the outer portion of the upper and the lining are secured together by cement applied to their mutually contacting surfaces A fter'the box, l qe' has set and the counter attaching paste and the cement along the side portions of the upper have set and hardened tov secure the shoe parts together permanently t. the, lasting fastening are removed and the upwardly projecting margins of the shoe upper matenials are trimmed substantially flush with the exposed surface of the filler I0, as shown in Fig. 6, the trimming operation being performed manually. or, by any, suitable machine. The tacks which temporarily attach the filler and the sock lining to the last bottom are then pulled whereupon the filler is removed from the shoe bottom leaving the recessor cavity 32 shown in Fig. 7. The upwardly projecting margins of the sock lining and; the shoe upper materials are then permanently secured together by stitches 34. In the course of the stitching operation a wrapper 36 (Fig.7)- may be securedjto the outer portion of the upper, or if desired an'outsole-attaching welt 31' (Fig; 9) (not shown) may be secured to the upper. A filler 38 (Fig. 8) is now inserted into the recess in the shoe bottom. This'roa'y be the same filler w s re iqhsl r m m. h ho hqtr. t. ay. if e rea' e a fi ler Q a i fer at xhsfg e that mete ed h he. la ti o ra:

35 titles; hr amete; th ller 1% ma if dea est 3,? WSMQT @ht ihl. 1 .9 for am le W 1 l? hieh weh ihetprcrid a suit bl ma no at he, rev ew. sting operetiqh but athe- 2 a ha siemf plrt and flexi lity The shot may be completed by wiping the wrapper 3 6 over the bottom margin thereof where; upon an, outsole s2, is: cement attached orother: x'ggiseseeured to thelshqebottom. v

- Havingthus described my invention, what I; claimas new, and desire to secure by Letter Petr. exit of. the United States is: p

meth at makin ho s h ht w- P11 5- es emh h e fillet s qt em qimene s1. a i-1v s tk eha e a arg n tehdih a ermy bey nd e e a e i the f ller and coatedwith adhesive on its uppereatt e hrie e mper thi th re a i ea le tfh t tm a s m han up 7: on thev last, shaping theupper over thelast w. his the ette mersin t e tim t ge her: with the margin ofz the, sock; lining. overthe en h at h .fill t. Q i h upper n hah t n iti a he la t n i he adhe i e. @91 1. a the margin oi v the s ocl;v lining sets to retain; dhesiye r' u ted m rg n lasted esit qht the upper. and thesock lining sh. with t e xhts d i r-te e o he l 1 119 n lei: fromgtheshoe bottom, sewing, togethelfr in a d the ppe hsi iheafi ehl sions and a sock lining having a margin which extends outwardly beyond the edge face of the filler when assembled therewith, temporarily attaching the assembly to a last bottom, assembling on the last an upper provided with a stifiener of the type which is initially flaccid and ultimately sets to the shape of the last and becomes adhesively attached to the upper, shaping the upper over the last, Wiping the bottom margin of the upper together with the margin of the sock lining over the margin of the filler. holding the upper in shaped position on the last until the stiffener sets, trimming the upper and the sock lining flush with the exposed surface of the filler removin the filler from the shoe bottom, permanently fastening together the upper and the sock lining, inserting a filler into the shoe bottom, and completing the shoe.

3. That method of making shoes which comprises assembling a filler of last bottom dimensions and a sock lining having a margin extending outwardly beyond the edge face of the filler when assembled therewith, said margin having been coated with adhesive, temporarily attaching the assembly to a last lbottom, assembling on the last a lined upper provided with a stiffener which is initially flaccid and ultimately stiifens to the shape of the last and becomes adhesively attached to the upper and the lining, shaping the upper over the last, wiping the bottom margin of the upper together with the margin of the sock lining over the margin of the filler, holding the upper in shaped position on the last until the stiffener sets and until the adhesive applied to the margin of the sock lining has bonded said margin to the upper lining, trimming the upper and the sucking lining flush with the exposed surface of the filler, removing the filler from the shoe bottom, fastening together the sock lining and the upper, inserting a filler, and completing the shoe.

' HORATIO S. LYNESS.

No references cited. 

